Santa Marta is a Caribbean resort, while neighbouring Taganga is where backpackers invariably opt to stay. Details on each follow, along with advice and information on the better hotels.
Santa Marta & Rodadero
Santa Marta is one of Colombia's premier beach resorts. As international tourists haven't fully discovered quite what a fantastic country Colombia is, this means that Santa Marta is mainly full of Colombian tourists. There's numerous high rise beach front hotels both in, and in the beaches surrounding, Santa Marta. The nearby suburb of Rodadero is similar in fashion and full of various hotels, lilo shops and restaurants.
The beaches are ok, though rather crowded. Nightlife is fun and rowdy, and the city is far busier during the peak domestic tourism season. If you're a man, looking for a Colombian woman, here along with Cali is where you'll probably have most luck. Think "Cancun", but on a smaller, less in-your-face package holiday style, but with far more beautiful Colombian people.
Those who stay in Santa Marta or Taganga usually do so as a launching pad for tours to two of Colombia's real travel highlights - Park Tayrona, and Ciudad Perdida.
Santa Marta Hotels
There's dozens of hotels in Santa Marta, and many are pretty non-descript. I'll only list a few of the better, more interesting ones.
Irotama - a "five star golf resort" that's in an "ecological complex", this option is very good value, and one of Santa Marta's best resorts.
Hotel Mar Azul - a 55 room hotel in the centre of Rodadero.
Mendihuaca Resort - a great option, this isn't actually in Santa Marta, in fact it's just outside of the stunningly beautiful Park Tayrona.
Also consider the chain hotels of Decameron Galeon, the Estellar Santamar and the Sol Arhuaco (a Solar owned hotel).
Taganga
Those seeking something a little more laid back should consider the nearby fishing village of Taganga. Taganga is a more laid back village, and just outside of Santa Marta itself. The village is in a pretty bay, and there is a pleasant beach on which to relax. There's a few pretty small beaches nearby, and some beautiful coastal walks. Taganga is also an excellent place to organise a scuba diving course in Colombia.
Taganga is one of Colombia's top backpacker hangouts. It's Santa Marta's "alternative" little brother as such, and tourists have been known to dabble in the use of illegal substances. Reading other guidebooks you might be lead to believe that this is a peaceful idyllic fishing village - maybe it was like this 10 years ago, but it's not now. Vendors will hassle you on the beach, and music blares out of beachside restaurants until late at night. "Laid back" it may be, but peaceful it's not. If you want peace and beautiful beaches head to nearby Park Tayrona. One final bit of advice - don't drink the water in Taganga as many, many tourists get seriously ill from it (likewise what out for salads and juices).
Taganga Hotels & Hostels
Techos Azules is a great little hostel with fantastic views over the bay of Taganga - the only drawback is that it's a 5 minute walk from the town itself. It's great value though.
Casa Felipe is one of Taganga's most well established hostels, and is very popular with backpackers.
Ballena Azul is supposedly one of best hotels in Taganga, with a fine beachfront location. I'm personally not a fan as their food is awful, and it poisoned me so badly that I was unable to move from my bed for 3 days.
There's dozens of other accommodation options, most of which are basic but clean, throughout Taganga. Just turn up and pick one that takes your fancy.
See the video of Santa Marta and Taganga.
