Santa Marta is a Caribbean resort, while neighbouring Taganga is where backpackers invariably opt to stay. Details on each follow, along with advice and information on the better hotels.
Santa Marta & Rodadero
Santa Marta is one of Colombia's premier beach resorts. As international tourists haven't fully discovered quite what a fantastic country Colombia is, this means that Santa Marta is mainly full of Colombian tourists. There's numerous high rise beach front hotels both in, and in the beaches surrounding, Santa Marta. The nearby suburb of Rodadero is more upmarket but similar in fashion and full of various hotels, lilo shops and restaurants.
The beaches are ok, though rather crowded. Nightlife is fun and rowdy, and the city is far busier during the peak domestic tourism season. If you're a man, looking for a Colombian woman, here along with Cali is where you'll probably have most luck. Think "Cancun", but on a smaller, less in-your-face package holiday style, but with far more beautiful Colombian people.
Those who stay in Santa Marta or Taganga usually do so as a launching pad for tours to two of Colombia's real travel highlights - Park Tayrona, and Ciudad Perdida.
Santa Marta & Rodadero Hotels
There's dozens of hotels in Santa Marta, and many are pretty non-descript. I'll only list a few of the better, more interesting ones.
La Casa - a boutique hotel in Santa Marta? What a refreshing change from all the other, mainly tasteless hotels. Stay at this 3 bedroom boutique if you can afford it - it's only US $100 for a double.
Irotama - a "five star golf resort" that's in an "ecological complex", this option is very good value, and one of Santa Marta's better resorts.
Hotel Mar Azul - a 55 room hotel in the centre of Rodadero.
SunCity - a good value budget / backpacker hotel in Santa Marta. Tours to Park Tayrona,Ciudad Perdida etc. can be arranged here.
Hotel Nueva Granada - a mid range hotel with a pleasant courtyard, small swimming pool and just a few blocks from the beach.
Park Hotel - a mid range waterfront hotel in the centre of town that makes far more of an effort than it's shabbier numerous neighbours.
Hotel La Sierra - a good mid range hotel in Rodadero with some great sea views.
La Brisa Loca - a backpackers hostel that describes itself as a "party hostel".
Aluna Hotel - a good looking Irish run hotel/hostel in Santa Marta.
Maybe also consider the chain hotels of Decameron Galeon, the Estelar Santamar and the Sol Arhuaco (a Solar owned hotel) - though they are all pretty non-descript.
Taganga
Those seeking something a little more laid back should consider the nearby fishing village of Taganga. Taganga is a more laid back village, and just outside of Santa Marta itself. The village is in a pretty bay, and there is an OK beach on which to relax. There's a few pretty small beaches nearby, and some beautiful coastal walks. Taganga is also a popular place to organise a scuba diving course in Colombia.
Taganga is one of Colombia's top backpacker hangouts. It's Santa Marta's "alternative" little brother as such, and tourists have been known to dabble in the use of illegal substances. Reading other guidebooks you might be lead to believe that this is a peaceful idyllic fishing village - maybe it was like this 10 years ago, but it's not now. Vendors will hassle you on the beach, and music blares out of beachside restaurants until late at night. "Laid back" it may be, but peaceful it's not. If you want peace and beautiful beaches head to nearby Park Tayrona. One final bit of advice - don't drink the water in Taganga as many, many tourists get seriously ill from it (likewise what out for salads and juices). Everyone who goes to Taganga seems to get ill (myself included).
Taganga Hotels & Hostels
As a very popular backpacker destination, none of the hotels and hostels in Taganga are expensive. Most of those listed below cost about $10 per person, but you'll also find places to sleep for half that price.
Techos Azules is a great little hostel with fantastic views over the bay of Taganga - the only drawback is that it's a 5 minute walk from the town itself. It's great value though.
Casa Felipe is one of Taganga's most well established hostels, and is very popular with backpackers. A great place to meet other travellers.
Divanga Hostal - remarkably great value hostal with lovely swimming pool, this is a peaceful option.
Bayview Hostel - another good value hostel with swimming pool, this is a Colombian owned hotel (unlike most of the others in Taganga, which seem to be owned by foreigners).
Ballena Azul is supposedly the best hotel in Taganga, with a fine beachfront location. I'm personally not a fan as their food is awful, and it poisoned me so badly that I was unable to move from my bed for 3 days. There is no point staying here - the other places listed above cost a third the price, and are just as good. Avoid.
There's dozens of other accommodation options, most of which are basic but clean, throughout Taganga. Just turn up and pick one that takes your fancy.
See the video of Santa Marta and Taganga.
Minca
Colombia's coast around Santa Marta can get so hot and humid, that travellers might want to consider heading up into the mountains of Minca to get away from the heat. This seems to be the main reason to travel to Minca - to avoid the heat, relax in a cooler climate, interact a bit with nature and maybe go birdwatching or frolicking in some rivers. Minca is also famous for it's organic coffee - which is some of Colombia's best. A taxi from Santa Marta to Minca should cost about 40,000 pesos (US $20) - travel time is about 30 minutes. There's a handful of hotels in Minca to choose from - consider Sierra Sound or Casa Santander - both are stylish, comfortable options.